Thursday 29 November 2012

Givenchy: Ricardo Tisci’s Gothic Glamour


In the world of fashion, as in any, really, your reputation precedes you. The hardest part of it all is working at one of the Grandes Maisons, labels specialized in haute couture that have been around for a while now. Why? Because there are a lot of expectations, like, for example, “Will s/he be able to keep up the brand’s style and add his/her personal touch?” or “Will s/he just imitate the previous designer”. But hey! The good news is that this is just at the beginning, when the public is sort of testing you. If you survived a whole year, you made it. There are even some times when the acceptance is so big the designer becomes the maison, like Karl Lagerfeld and Chanel or Ricardo Tisci and Givenchy.

1) Look A
Givenchy is one of the big legends, and belongs to the classics-with-a-style-not-so-classic; well, no, what could be classier than Holly Goligthly’s (Audrey Hepburn’s) beautiful black dress at “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”? Yes my friends, a Givenchy production. Being completely honest, I recently watched “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” and that’s were I thought to myself: “Hey! Why haven’t you written about Givenchy?” So here I am.

After Hubert de Givenchy, founder of the label, John Galliano (former Dior Creative Director) took it over, but it was until 2005 when Givenchy’s Womenswear division passed to Tisci’s hands.  In 7 years, Ricardo Tisci has shown us a new both, glamorous and gothic face of Givenchy that we love more and more as seasons go by. Want to love it too? Parfait! Here, from the Spring-Summer 2013 Prêt-à-Porter Givenchy Collection, my Top Three:

2) Look B
1) Look A. Interesting indeed. I love the blouse. The cut of the upper layer is unusual, but it completes perfectly the look along with the halter underneath. Halter blouses make your neck look longer, stylize your torso and give the illusion of leaner arms. The transparencies used are a trick to make them think you’re not showing anything but then again, you are. Also, see how the layer on top is bigger? It is so because that way people perceive the body covered with the halter is smaller (in other words, thinner). The metallic brooches give it a futuristic taste, don’t they? Though I’m not sure about the detail on the neck. I mean, it does reflect light, but then again, makes the neck look thicker, counteracting the effect of the halter. What do you think? I adore the shoes. That barefoot appearance is the perfect to go with the artificiality of the rest of the outfit. The skirt is really pretty, pencil cut with the piece of fabric on the front that sways along as you walk. The metallic brooches in this part of the look make you focus on the central part of the body, marked by the part of fabric that hangs at the center of the skirt and is smaller than the whole piece, making you look thinner. Again, layers.

3) Look C
2) Look B. Turtle neck to make the neck appear longer. Sleeves that open at the end for the visual effect of smaller hands. Stitches at the center to divide the body in two and make the torso appear smaller. Stitches under the shoulders to make the arms appear leaner. The star of this outfit is the skirt (same as the previous one) and it’s tail. Look how it flows with the wind! If only life could be like that!

3) Look C. Now, this is what I was talking about! Hello, Gothic princess! The upper part is gorgeous! Look at the detail on the neck! Wow! So many faux necklaces and the fact that they’re in dark colors, make the neck look longer. The bagginess on the upper part of the body is meant to contrast to the faux belt on the waist, so it appears to be smaller. The fact that the skirt (from hips to the edge) isn’t wider than the top makes us look thinner.  The black jeans underneath are just to make it casual, but here’s an interesting effect you may cause if wearing leggings: Tell me, where are the knees? The legs seem longer than they really are, making us look taller and generally, slimmer.

I’d certainly explore my dark side wearing Givenchy, I mean, wouldn’t you? Gotta go, crazy diamonds! And remember, shine all over and dream on because that’s what we’re meant to do! Lotta Love. Ciao!


P.S. Images taken from Vogue ES. Here’s the link to de photo shoot of the whole runway show!
http://www.vogue.es/desfiles/primavera-verano-2013-paris-givenchy/7871

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